Bamberg, in Upper Franconia region of Germany, is nothing but an irony written by the history of 20th century, as we discovered on one of our Backroads of Germany tours. This little jewel of a town is situated just about 50 km from Nuremberg. Yes, the same Nuremberg where seeds of Nazi propaganda were sown. The same Nuremberg virtually flattened to the ground by Allied bombings. The same Nuremberg where the post-war Nazi trials were held. And while Nuremberg bears scars of the painful war history, medieval Bamberg, just an hour away, escaped completely unscathed by the second world war, or for that matter any major war in history. A forgotten world.

Walking through the beautiful gate cut into the city wall, the trip is literally traveling back in time. The Altes Rathaus, or the Old City Hall, sitting awkwardly in the middle of the Regnitz river greets you first. The eleventh century cathedral, the Bamberg Dom still stands on the original stone it was built on. Make sure you dont miss the mysterious Bamberg Horseman statue, an unknown rider that has been the subject of many a historic exercises and conspiracy theories! And if you plan your trip right, you can also hear the organ play – but keep in mind, entry is restricted to only a few, and first-come-first served.

Bamberg is also the home to the last few remaining beerhouses that produce “rauchbier”, or “smoked beer”. Schlenkerla is the more popular one, which serves its own rauchbier, and is right in the middle of town center, or if you prefer, a short two kilometer hike will bring you to the lovely bier-garten at Spezial-Keller with a phenomenal view of the cathedral and the neighboring hills.

And what about the rauchbier itself? Loved it! The smoky, almost “bacon like” flavor (which is what rauchbier is all about – the smokiness imparted by the open fire drying of malt) – was different, and in no way subtle (be warned) – but outstanding, nevertheless. Combine that with a hot summer day and end of a two kilometer walk – you got yourself a sweet spot!!